Category Archives: Growing carnivorous plants in India

Carnivorous plants are difficult to grow in the heat of India’s plains. The challenges are different, the conditions are vastly different from most information available online. Growing carnivorous plants in India requires adapting a lot of information found online to Indian conditions. 24 degree celcius is not “hot” here. We call it cool weather. For most of Indian plains and particularly the southern half of India, “winter” reaching single digit temperatures is rare. How does one grow the plants one reads about? It has been an educational journey.

Adapting carnivorous plants to Indian conditions takes some strategizing. Some never really adapt well and I have spent tens of thousands of rupees on plants only to discover that they didn’t make it a week past receiving them. Others, like byblis, notorious for being tricky to germinate are weeds here. The only byblis seeds I intentionally germinated were the first batch of 10 seeds I purchased. They have been handling their propagation just fine ever since.

On the other hand, the amount of money I’ve spent trying to grow pinguiculas here is not funny.

But it is an endeavour worth taking on. The plants are a curiosity. They are a challenge. Many of them are dying in their habitats. Some of them, native to India need to be purchased from abroad, as their habitats die out and few in India bother to keep the species alive in private collections.

Over time, there have been several species that have thrived in the sweltering heat of Nalasopara, near Mumbai. Spares from species that thrive are available in my makeshift shop for sale. They are a good idea to buy, because they are adapted to our conditions and clearly thrive well enough for there to be spares to sell.

So here are my experiences growing these fascinating plants.

How to culture live sphagnum 1

How to culture live sphagnum

Live sphagnum grows in very pure water and needs high humidity to grow well. If you cannot provide these two, you might as well not bother. But it is not so hard to create these conditions. Here are some ideas.

Growing it in a simple cup or plastic container

How to culture live sphagnum 2

This is quite simple. You simply place the live sphagnum you have in a transparent container with a small quantity of water. You can cover the container and open it on and off for ventilation or leave a few holes for ventilation. Change the water in the cup every week or so to prevent the culture from going bad. This method works well for short durations, like keeping your sphagnum alive before you culture it or use it as a top dressing on a pot, etc. Eventually the sphagnum will outgrow the cup.

Growing out the sphagnum

How to culture live sphagnum 3

To grow the sphagnum, it needs a little more drainage than a cup offers. You can grow it on soaked dried sphagnum, perlite or a mix of the two or other suitable medium. Some use peat. I have tried using cocopeat, but I find that if it is not really well rinsed, the sphagnum will not grow well and will simply die.

How to culture live sphagnum 4

Spread the sphagnum out on the growing medium so that it isn’t too sparse – live sphagnum grows best when it grows in contact with more sphagnum. If you spread the sphagnum too thinly (probably believing that more area covered meaning you will have more sphagnum faster), it will not grow as fast as it will when surrounded by sphagnum.

At the same time, making a thick clump is also not useful, because the sphagnum that does not get light will simply die out with time and not grow. When spreading the sphagnum, I try to create a layer that is 2 strands thick and doesn’t have too many places where a lot of growing medium shows through. It can’t be perfect, but more for a general idea.

Add a hole for drainage just below the level of the sphagnum moss, so that the sphagnum isn’t sitting in the water. You can also simply put holes in the bottom of the pot for the water to run through. This will be healthier for the sphagnum, but you will have to be careful to not let the culture dry out, as all the water will drain out. You can sit this in a water tray.

Growing live sphagnum along with plants

How to culture live sphagnum 5

If your growing area has high humidity, you can grow the sphagnum in pots containing other plants. You put the sphagnum on the surface of the pot like you would for creating a culture. The sphagnum actually grows pretty well like that. The only catch is that you have to water or mist it regularly so that it doesn’t dry out.

And it will just grow!

How to culture live sphagnum 6
How I make Pinguicula cuttings - Pinguicula agnicola as example 7

How I make Pinguicula cuttings – Pinguicula agnicola as example

First, some eye candy.

Pinguicula agnicola plantlet unfurling new leaves

Now for how to get here.

You begin with a healthy pinguicula plant (healthier than this – this is a plant after I pulled off the leaves, because I forgot to take photos before). It should have a good number of leaves, enough to not miss a couple. Do not pull a leaf out of a plant that doesn’t have many out of greed to have more plants faster – you may lose the one you have.

Ignore the lack of dew on the mother plant. It is healthy. Just dormant.

Pinguicula agnicola plant

Pull the leaves off from the base carefully. Pinguicula leaves can be fragile – if you pull a long leaf from the tip with some force, the leaf is likely to tear – you don’t want that. Hold gently and as close as possible to the base and gently pull it off. Gentle downward force at the base or sideways pulling works and it will just snap off. If you are struggling to pull it off without adding force, think of it as snapping it out from the base – it is a technique and doesn’t take much force. Force is fine as long as you don’t tear the leaf.

Place the leaves somewhere suitable. I have placed them on a tray in which there used to be nepenthes truncata seedlings that died this summer. I couldn’t bear to throw the tray away, so there was a lot of empty space on it. You can literally put the plantlets anywhere – an empty pot, on tissue paper in a plastic box or cup, or even in a zip lock bag. It isn’t very important. Pinguiculas aren’t very obsessed with media or for that matter roots.

Pinguicula agnicola leaf pullings

If it is somewhere with some humidity, that is all you need to do. Or cover them or something. These guys have moss around them, they are fine.

Put your leaf pullings somewhere where they get bright light, but not scorching hot direct sunlight for hours on end – you want to grow plants from those leaves, not dry them.

Ignore them for a week or so. Nothing much will happen. At some point around a week (longer for some plants) you will see tiny bumps on the base of the leaf (remember your teenage years “OMG is this going to be a pimple?”) – they will barely be perceptible at the start – more like slight bumps.

slight bumps on pinguicula agnicola leaf pullings

Then they will be definite bumps.

Pinguicula agnicola leaf pulling starting to form plantlet

Then those darling pimples will grow and burst into the most welcome result of ripe pimples ever.

Pinguicula agnicola leaf pulling starting to form plantlets

While you are obsessing over the growth of those bumps into plantlets, the original leaf will start drying out slowly from the tip. Not much you can do about it, but generally, you want the leaf to last long enough for the plantlets to be big enough to survive independently by the time it is gone – that makes successful pullings. So don’t scrimp on the humidity.

Pinguicula agnicola leaf forming plantlets

Initially the leaves will be a bit confused, like they are not sure what they want to be when they grow up. Wavy, conjoined, whatever. Soon enough, the new leaves that form will be typical of the plant you pulled the mother leaf from. Just miniature.

When the leaf dies out, you can look at the plantlets you have. Sometimes you have just one plantlet. Nothing further needs to be done. Sometimes you have a cluster of them. If the original leaf is dead, you can c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y separate them out. CAREFULLY. They will be fragile. Separating them gives them some space to grow. You can also leave them like that to separate later. Not a big deal.

Careful of the roots, and just make a hollow and place the plant inside. Do not get overenthusiastic and try to “plant” it. Ping roots are more like the tendrils on cucumber vines than like roots proper. Handle them too much and you do more damage than good. The plant will figure its life out. As long as it isn’t in danger of toppling out of the pot, the roots will figure themselves out. If it is in danger of toppling off, place in better position and still don’t harass the fragile roots.

You may want to read this for more idea on replanting plantlets. Successfully acclimatizing pinguicula that arrive via shipping

Now you have such plantlets

Pinguicula agnicola plantlet

They grow

Pinguicula agnata x gypsicola agnicola plantlet

And grow
Pinguicula agnata x gypsicola agnicola plantlet

And etc
P. agnicola plantlet

That is it.

Happy growing.

Nepenthes merrilliana refuses to pitcher. 8

Nepenthes merrilliana refuses to pitcher.

I have a seedgrown nepenthes merrilliana that is about two years old or so. It has never pitchered other than when it was a very small seedling. It gets good conditions. 5-6 hours of light. Good water, consistent humidity. Other plants near it are pitchering. This one flat out refuses. If you see the photo, the tendril swells and appears like it is about to form a pitcher, but it doesn’t.

Nepenthes merrilliana

Obviously, the plant has never traveled or suffered climate shock. It has been repotted exactly once, over a year ago, as I am aware that merrilliana is not a big fan of root disturbance.

Ideas/advice welcome.

How to use cocopeat for your carnivrous plants.

Carnivorous plants often expect the substrate merely for the physical base to keep them grounded, significantly as a source of clean water & and for the roots to dig in away from the light. some pings and droseras do produce roots upwards, but that open for another conversation.

Its is often safer to have one such substrate with rinsed sand / perlite that can help in water and air mobilization/drainage inside the substrate.

Cocopeat as we all know is commonly being used everywhere for garderning and is affordable given the massive quantity a 5kg compressed brick can expand into. Except for a few fuzzy cps, majority of the others can be kept in chemically sterlized cocopeat and most nepenthes can straightaway be potten in a decent quality cocopeat without sterlizing them atall.

Sterlizing them saves a tonne of ₹₹₹ ( money ) and they last long ! its fairly straightforward as below – (I’m writing this with a 5kg brick as a volumetric constant. if you use a 1kg brick, pl tone the volumes down proportionally)

This has worked out just fine for me although it might seem harsh on the cocopeat. My cocopeat now is still super stable after 2 years.

A. Materilas required :

1. a tub – use something at home (~free)
2. 15 lits of tap water – free aswell
3. 5 lits of RO water – guessing free, or use distilled water (Rs. 100-200)
4. 5kg cocopeat brick – Rs. 150
5. hydrogen peroxide 500ml bottle – Rs. 75
6. bleach powder (Calcium hypochlorite) 100gms – Rs. 25
7. safety gloves and facemask (there can be co2 emmisions – do it in an open space / balcony) – ~Rs. 50 ?

B. Procedure :

1. Dissolve 3 table spoons of bleach powder in 5 lits of tap water.
2. Drop the cocopeat brick in a tub with 10 lits of tap water and let it all upand expand as much as it can.
3. Add the 5 lits of bleech dissolved water to it after its stable. (guess it takes about 30 -45 mins).
4. Wear your gloves and mix them upto down for a min
5. let it sit for half day (10-12 hours)
6. Drain the water out by putting a cloth over the tub and tilting it or pouring the contents on a tray with holes.
7. Drain the water out as much as you can, have the gloves on w/o fail.
8. Some flush it with tap water again but you can skip that step if you dont feel like, some do it to make sure all the bleached out content goes away, its not really needed.
9. Pour 100ml of 100% hydrogen peroxide (h202) solution into a tub with 5 lits of RO/rain/distilled water. soak the entire content in it for 1 day. – h202 helps in unlocking loose bleach particles that might have remained unreacted.
10. Drain the water out as much as you can, h2o2 has a high decomposition rate when not contained in a stable environemnt, in less than one more day 99% of the excessive h202 that might be left out in the substrate would have broken down to water and oxygen.
11. Voila – your substrate is ready and residue free with nearly no ph change in them for however long they are kept in water.

C. Total method cost : Rs. 400-500 + 2 days time = ~25 kgs of substrate. ( 60% water weight )

D. wt/vol Equivalent moss cost : 1kg of decent live sphagnum moss (60% water wight ) will be anywhere between Rs. 600- Rs. 800.00 ; Sphag Peat – Rs. 200- Rs. 400/kg

for 25 kgs : moss :: Rs. 15,000 – Rs. 18,000
for 25 kgs : coco :: Rs. 500.00

drosera burmanii

Drosera burmanii

Some drosera burmanii photos:

Drosera burmanii may be tiny, but they have mighty dew!
Drosera burmanii may be tiny, but they have mighty dew!

Drosera burmanii can get red when not fed for a while
Drosera burmanii can get red when not fed for a while

You can grow drosera burmanii nice and tidy in pots.
You can grow drosera burmanii nice and tidy in pots.

Or the drosera burmanii grow wherever they want, like when seeds fall into some other empty pot…
Or the drosera burmanii grow wherever they want, like when seeds fall into some other empty pot...

Drosera burmanii don’t care if the pot isn’t empty either…
Drosera burmanii don't care if the pot isn't empty either...

They grow where they wish. Conquering the world one pot at a time.
They grow where they wish. Conquering the world one pot at a time.

Drosera burmanii is among the easiest drosera
Drosera burmanii is among the easiest drosera

Drosera burmanii flower stalk starting to form
Drosera burmanii flower stalk starting to form

Drosera burmanii flower
Drosera burmanii flower

Drosera burmanii seed pods. Each of these has hundreds of seeds.
Drosera burmanii seed pods. Each of these has hundreds of seeds.

Nepenthes thorelii x hamata cutting

How I do nepenthes cuttings

I am going to try and add photos to give a visual idea later, but frankly, I don’t usually take pics while working with plants, so it may be a bit of a struggle to find the right ones. So it may have to wait till the next time I do cuttings.

Right at the start – I have not had good success with rooting hormones. Others may have had, and they have their methods, of course, but mine no longer uses rooting hormones.

For cuttings of species that root readily. Mirabilis, ventrata, and such… there isn’t a lot to say. I cut up the vine and put it in soil under intermittent misting and am done. Maybe peel or split a bit of the bottom of the stem to expose the cambium.

The following is a more… elaborate process that I use with plants that don’t root as easily or more expensive plants, where I can’t afford failed cuttings.

  • Identifying the plant. I don’t make cuttings from plants with just one growing point, unless the vine is really, really long (hypothetical, I have not had this). For example:
    Nepenthes benstonei with multiple basals and a vine
    Usually, I’ll take cuttings from the vine, or separate out a basal if a plant is growing strongly and has one or more basals.
  • Deciding how much plant material to take out. I generally leave at least one growing point with at least 4-6 leaves. Basals or vine depends on what I want. If there are a lot of basals, I may decide to take one or two out and let the vine and one or more basals continue. Or I may take out the vine and leave one or more basal to continue. Generally, my choice will avoid disturbing the roots, so whether it is the basal or the vine, I will cut above the root of the soil if possible, or dig in slightly to the stem of the basal, but I never unpot the plant – root shock as well as the trauma of parts being cut off can kill the mother plant. Ideally I leave enough of the plant behind, with undisturbed roots for it to continue to grow strongly.
  • Preparing the material. Once, cut, I put the material for cuttings into a large bowl of clean water and rinse them well. I leave it in the water while I prepare other things if I need to. I don’t take them out and leave them drying. I use this opportunity to wash off any dust, pests, etc, leaving behind clean stems and leaves.
  • Trimming the material and preparing the cuttings. I take another bowl of clean water and add some trichoderma or systemic fungicide (optional) and seaweed fertilizer (half strength or so. Not too much). I will drop prepared cuttings into this bowl. To make cuttings, I cut the vines into segments with 2-3 nodes, depending on how readily the plant roots. Very rarely will I do single node cuttings. I generally make the cut so that there is some stem below the bottom node if possible to avoid removing leaves. I cut leaves down to about a third of their size, maybe even less for very large leaves. I don’t touch the growing tip segment, leaving any newly unfurled leaves as they are. For basals, there isn’t much to do. Remove dead/damaged leaves and drop into seaweed fertilizer.
  • Seaweed spa. I let the cuttings soak in the liquid fertilizer for a while while I make the pots for the cuttings.
  • Potting mix. I generally have a well draining mix for this. Without roots, the cuttings can’t really take up water, and soggy mix will only invite rot. Lots of perlite or gravel or whatever. I’m not very picky about the soil. Anything will do as long as it holds some moisture, isn’t nutrient heavy and doesn’t attract contamination. I’ve used construction gravel too. Expensive mixes are not necessary.
  • Growing the cuttings. I push the cuttings into the mix and place the whole thing under a misting system, so that the humidity is high. If you are using rooting hormone, you’d be applying it just before pusing the base of the cutting into the media. Alternatively, you can put them in a plastic bag, etc – but I have had issues with fungus when ventilation is poor. It may be better to poke holes into the plastic bag for ventilation and leave some water in the bottom to evaporage and create some extra humidity.I put them where they will get good light, but not direct sunlight – particularly if they are in bags. In the open air under the misting system, some sun is okay as long as it isn’t prolonged exposure that cooks them.
  • Leaving cuttings undisturbed. UNDISTURBED. Once I’ve put the cuttings in their place, I don’t touch them at all unless I have to remove any obviously dead or contaminated ones. No moving, no picking up to check, nothing. Plants are not animals. They don’t like to be moved. Cuttings are already stressed without roots. Don’t harass them till you either see some growth or they are visibly dead.
  • If your cuttings have done well, you will see new leaves forming from one or more nodes well before the half cut original leaves of the cuttings dry out. You should see swelling at nodes within a week or two and it usually takes another month or two to see leaves.
    Nepenthes thorelii x hamata cuttingIn three months or so, you should be seeing the first pitchers.
    Nepenthes thorelii x hamata cutting with pitchers
  • Given good humidity, basals and the apical cuttings of vines that already have growing points, should just continue to grow, sometimes without even losing the pitchers they originally had if you do things right.

That is it, I think. Will add anything else I can think of here, or ask away. Share your method for making cuttings too.

(Edited to add some details)

Pinguicula plantlets placed on sphagnum

Successfully acclimatizing pinguicula that arrive via shipping

The plants you buy will be shipped to you bare root. When you receive them, take them out of the packing and gently GENTLY place them on growing media. Create a hollow in the surface of the media and gently place the plant in it and cover any roots that are easily covered, with media. The roots of pinguicula are like small white hair and do little more than anchor the plant to the media and absorb some water. The roots being anchored in media is not very important to the survival of your new pinguicula. However, if you damage the fragile roots, you create openings for pathogens to enter the plant while it is still weakened from shipping.

Pinguicula gigantea plantlet

Pinguicula gigantea plantlet

Avoid rubbing the roots in any way. If they cannot be planted in media easily, it is absolutely fine to simply place the plant on the media without worrying about the roots at all. As the plant acclimatizes and grows, it will send out new roots that anchor it to the media. A ping is not too fussed by this.

Sometimes growing leaves of a ping will lift the roots right out of the media or the plant can also send out arial roots that don’t touch the media at all or the plant can simply grow in the direction of the light putting out new roots that sort of let it… “travel”. You planting it in some place does not mean that it will remain there. Here is a Pinguicula gigantea plantlet that I’d kept in too low light that decided to leave its pot in search of better light. If I had not spotted this in time, I’d have ended up with a very etiolated plantlet like a tube that sent out roots as it grew toward the light. As the current lowest leaves died, the plant would “move”.

This isn’t to say that your plant is going to start crawling around, just to stress that the roots of a pinguicula are attached to leaves. With new leaves come new roots that find new anchors. Regardless of whether these roots are anchored, new ones that grow will anchor the plant to the media. If you can cover existing roots with moist media, excellent, the plant will be able to settle and grow quicker, but if you damage the roots and keep the broken parts wet, you can kill a pinguicula like that by making it vulnerable to pathogens.

In the image below, you will see that I have placed a lot of small plantlets of pinguicula gracilis and pinguicula rotundiflora on a bed of sphagnum. It is difficult to make out in the phtoto, but the sphagnum is not very deep. It is a half an inch layer placed in a tray. I have simply placed the plantlets on top without worrying about their roots at all. You can see some fine white hair like roots in the photo. In a few days, the plantlets adapt to the surface and attach to it. Some of the roots will continue to grow in the air and that is fine.

Pinguicula plantlets placed on sphagnum

Pinguicula plantlets placed on sphagnum

If there are any leaves that get detached during shipping, you can place those on the media as well and if your growing conditions are good, they will form additional plants for you.

In terms of growing, think of giving the plant a space to hang out rather than PLANTING it firmly into place. If you grow succulents, you’ll find pinguicula easy.

Once your ping is in its pot, place it in a shady spot away from direct breezes. Avoid bright or direct light initially and only start increasing the light they get as they start growing again. It is very unlikely that you will be able to grow pinguicula in direct sunlight in India, unless you live in a really cool and misty place that has mostly cloud cover. However, most pinguicula will enjoy between an hour or two to several hours of direct light in the early morning or evening. Find out what your plant enjoys by very, very gradually moving it to brighter conditions – it is better to keep it in bright shade than too much direct sunlight – it will get cooked and die rapidly.

You can water it in, but if your media is damp, I have not really found it necessary. If you have damaged the roots, excessively wet media can make it easier for pathogens to enter the plant. This, I think is the biggest reason newly planted pings die. Keeping the plants too wet will encourage rot – particularly if the plants have arrived in shipping (less of a problem when transplanting).

Personally, I like to place any newly arrived plants on their growing media and simply mist lightly several times a day (if water is dripping from the leaves, pooling in the crown of the plant or the leaves are still wet five minutes later – that is drenching, not misting) till they start growing again, then reduce the frequency and start watering lightly. I never water my pinguicula too heavily. I give the pot a good soaking once in a while or just drizzle ome water on it if the surface appears dry.

The plants don’t really seem to care a lot as long as the humidity is high and you mist them well. Pinguicula can absorb moisture through their leaves easily as well as survive short dry periods well. If the humidity is low or you can’t find a spot sheltered from the breeze for them, you may want to put the plant and pot in a plastic bag to keep in the humidity and only increase it slowly once the roots seem to be established in the new media and start drawing water – the plant will resume growth of new leaves.

Another point to note here is that you can improve your chances of success dramatically by avoiding buying the plant so that it arrives at an adverse time in terms of climate. If it is summer and temperatures are above 30 degrees centigrade or approaching freezing, it is worth waiting for the weather to improve and getting a healthier plant that will recover and grow rapidly than a plant that may not survive the shipping or stress or take a long time to recover.

Nepenthes Viking x hamata pitcher

Nepenthes mirabilis var globosa (Nepenthes viking) x Nepenthes hamata photos

Took some nice photos of the latest pitcher on my nepenthes mirabilis var globosa x hamata and thought to share them here. This plant is still juvenile and has just started producing slightly bigger pitchers. The adult pitchers should be really stunning if these are anything to go by.

The ribbed peristomes come from the nepenthes hamata parent. Nepenthes hamata will not grow in my climate (hot) as it requires low temperatures at night, so I am quite excited to imagine that its signature trait may still be present in a plant that grows here.

The peristome gets really dark brown as the pitcher matures. Very hamata. I forgot to take pictures. I’ll add them here soon. Waiting for a bigger pitcher.

rescued nepenthes plants

Where to find sphagnum moss and other carnivorous plant growing supplies in India?

Almost half the people who buy plants from me or discuss carnivorous plants end up asking where to buy sphagnum moss or other supplies necessary for growing carnivorous plants in India. Since I repeat this information often, I thought I’d put up a list of where I buy things from.

Please note, any links to products are affiliate links, because why not. However, I am only recommending products I have actually used myself.

Potting mixes and materials for growing carnivorous plants

Carnivorous plants need nutrient poor medium to grow in. This means that using the standard mud or potting mixes will not work. The plants will die. Suitable materials include cocopeat, peat, sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Some of these can be used on their own or mixed with others to create suitable medium to grow your plants.

Cocopeat

Cocopeat is relatively easily available in India, given our long shoreline and abundance of use of coconuts. Many of the larger nurseries in cities will have cocopeat. Please be sure to buy bricks of cocopeat and NOT potting mixes based on cocopeat, because those will have added nutrients that will kill your plants. The problem with using cocopeat is that it needs to be rinsed with water several times to remove salts and other nutrients before it can be used. Also unlike use for common gardening plants, soaking in calcium nitrate fertilizer to replace the sodium salts will not work as a relatively quick fix, because carnivorous plants don’t want calcium salts either. So you have to do this properly. Soak in water, drain, soak in water, drain and so on. Once the water removed from the cocopeat gets lighter, you must use purer water – rainwater, RO or distilled till you have got most of the dissolved content out of the cocopeat.

On the plus side, cocopeat is inexpensive and available relatively easily. For those not living in places where local nurseries sell cocopeat, here are some online listings where you can buy it. I’ve made comments under each.

Sphagnum moss

This one is trickier to find, but probably the best medium to use. The ones sold by many nursery sites as sphagnum moss are often not sphagnum moss, but forest moss. This is also usually quite dirty and full of debris and personally, I wouldn’t advise using it unless you are growing some of the larger nepenthes that you don’t mind gambling with. For any other carnivorous plants, this sort of moss is useless.

The very best sphagnum you could use is the AAA NewZealand Sphagnum. It is expensive, but it expands dramatically and is very good value for money, particularly for the more expensive and rare plants. I am pretty much discontinuing the use of all other sphagnum for my plants. I’m addicted.

But there are other and cheaper options too. Here are the acceptable listings of sphagnum moss I found to be acceptable quality. Please read the comments under the products for my opinion on them.

Coco chips, bark, etc

Coconut chips, bark and charcoal are other very interesting materials to use for larger nepenthes and orchids. Not much to comment on other than RINSE EVERYTHING YOU USE. Here is where you can find them.

Containers for growing carnivorous plants

This is simply a listing of various containers I have found useful for my plants. I’m commenting with the kinds of plants they could be useful for, but this is not expected to be a detailed listing.

I also start plants that will get larger later in smaller containers and move to progressively larger ones as their root balls grow and they need the space.

Seedling trays

Seedling trays are invaluable when starting plants from seed. They take up much less space, use less potting media and allow for better observation and growing of the tiny plants. They should be available with larger nurseries.

Here are some or similar to what I’ve picked up a time or two if you don’t have a nursery selling them near by.

Small pots

These are suitable for most carnivorous plants. Most drosera, pinguicula or byblis can probably be grown in them permanently, but they also form useful intermediate pots for drosophyllum and nepenthes, as well as larger drosera like drosera regia.

Bigger pots

These are various pots suitable for bigger plants. Hanging planters can be used for larger nepenthes plants.

Other interesting containers

Here are some other containers that have worked well at various times. Vertical gardening is really a cool way of maximizing the available space.